In between reading The Brother’s Grimm and Charles Perrault’s versions of Little Red Riding Hood (yes, in Spanish) for my Children’s Literature class last night, I thought it would be a good time for a quick update on this weekend!

On Thursday night, I went with a few friends to Sersibo, a popular and well reputed salsa club in Quito. Despite not knowing more than the most basic salsa step, I had so much fun! We eventually each got a little lesson from someone on the dance floor. (It’s much easier to be a female salsa dancers…the guys do all the work!)

On Friday, I walked across the width of Quito to Parque Metropolitano, a huge park on the eastern side of the city. With 4 other girls, I hiked through the park for a few hours. We found some of the beautiful spots that look down into the valley. (Unfortunately, I didn’t bring my camera, so I’ll have to go back!) We think we saw the university down in Cumbaya. By the time I hiked back across the park and across the city to get home, I had been going for 5 hours. I was wiped! Luckily, we were all meeting up that evening at one of our group member’s host homes for pizza and to hang out at his indoor pool, so it was a relaxing and early night.

On Saturday morning, we met Amanda and Boni at 7am at USFQ, where we boarded a private bus to Otavalo, an indigenous town about 2 hours north of Quito. On the way, we stopped at this beautiful vista point:

Otavalo is the site of Ecuador’s most famous artisan market, where we spent two hours bargaining with vendors and taking in the beautiful handmade blankets, tablecloths, ponchos, hats, woodwork, scarves, bags, pants, shirts, dresses, boxes, and jewelry. The town was swarming with tourists and vendors of all ages. After shopping, we drove to the nearby Cotacahi, a town known for its leatherwork and named the ‘City of Peace’ by Unesco a few years back. We had a delicious lunch of soup, lasagna (ecua style…if you’re thinking of mozzarella and tomato sauce you’re way off), shrimp, coconut flan, and, most exciting of all, cuey. Cuey is a local ‘delicacy,’ though many Ecuadorians I have talked to are almost as disgusted by it as we are. Why is it so gross? Well, cuey is simply guinea pig, served whole (yes, head, organs, bones, skin, and all), and fried. It was served belly down, arms and legs spread wide, on top of veggies. And yes, of course I tried it! There actually wasn’t much meat on it, but as Timon from the Lion King would say, mmm…tastes like chicken!


(Apologies to anyone with a weak stomach...)

After lunch, we boarded the bus again and drove to the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve. Inside, we boarded a small motorboat on Laguna d Cuicocha, which is a lagoon above a collapsed volcanic crater. Our group’s geology major and the tour guide on the boat helped us understand that this lake, which was clear, warm, full of minerals, and supposedly relatively safe to drink, formed after the volcano collapsed in on itself after being inactive for so long. There are little islands in the lake that shot up as a result of later eruptions. After our boat trip in the rain, Boni treated us to a traditional drink that was difficult to swallow – a hot cinnamon tea with (unprocessed) sugar and some sort of alcohol. The only thing good about it was that it was HOT and we were cold and wet!

Finally, I’d like to give a little shoutout to all the Zippilli’s, Foran’s, Moore’s, and Dunleavey’s following along – it means so much to me that you are all so interested in what I’m doing!! Thank you!!

Patriotism & Politics

Greetings! Though classes seem to be off to a slow start (I haven’t had too much work…yet), a few exciting things did happen this week. On Monday I got my Censo, which is my government ID card while I am in Ecuador that basically says I’m not here illegally. Tuesday was quite an exciting day to be a US citizen, with the whole world tuned into the inauguration. I had planned on running to a computer lab to watch the ceremony and speech on YouTube when my class was over at 1, but luckily, my professor let us break from 11:50-12:30 to watch history in the making on the big screen TVs that were playing CNN all day all over campus. I got chills and a little teary-eyed during the ceremony from all the excitement and patriotism, if only because I never realized how closely our politics are followed abroad.

Earlier on Tuesday morning, one of my literature professors, who is a New York native, asked all his “gringos” to stay after class for a few minutes. He made himself available to us for any questions or concerns we might be having about being in Quito, living with host families, being at the school, taking classes, etc. He also told us that while the gringos think it’s hard to break into the Ecuadorian groups of friends, the native students feel the same way about us. He encouraged us to work hard to make friends with Ecuadorians both in his class and beyond. Then, he gave us all a free copy of the guidebook that he helps write (Ecuador & The Galapagos Islands by Viva Travel Guides, if you’re interested) with the expectation that if we notice anything that is outdated or have any suggestions, we let him know. I was so touched!

Finally, today was the first day of my pre-practicum at Colegio Menor, the private prep-school for USFQ. The campus is beautiful and all the teachers and administrators I met were so nice. The principal of the high school had a schedule ready to go for me when I got there in the morning. I observed 10th grade social studies in the morning (which is taught in English) and 12th grade Spanish Literature in the afternoon. (My host sister, Melissa, was actually in this class!) Both teachers were phenomenal and very welcoming.

In the social studies class, the teacher, Sandra (all students call teachers and professors by their first names here – pretty different!) was giving a lecture and powerpoint presentation on the Enlightenment. At one point, she had a quote about tolerance, and asked students what they thought about people with different opinions. In what I’m guessing was an attempt to spice up the class, she asked her students what they thought about homosexuality as a difference of opinion and lifestyle. I was a bit surprised by the reaction of the students, though I should have seen it coming: all at once, they all got very vocal about homosexuality being wrong, unnatural, destructive to society, etc. They used some pretty strong words. There was only one girl in the class bold enough to raise her hand and say that she felt that people should be able to do what they want. Sandra did a really good job of trying to provoke her students to open their minds and consider different arguments about homosexuality, but most of them were quite vocal and stubborn. At one point, she turned to me and asked what people in the States thought about homosexuality. I was definitely thrown off, and not quite ready to sum up the quite controversial subject in a few sentences, but I explained that there is more tolerance and advocacy for gay rights in the US than there is in Ecuador. The students were interested in the fact that gay marriage is legal in some states. The whole conversation was definitely an interesting cultural exchange!

Baños!

On Thursday afternoon, we left from USFQ and headed South of Quito to Baños, a small town on the side of a Volcán Tungurahua, a volcano which last erupted in 1999 but is still active. The town is a gateway to the Amazon and surrounded by beautiful sights…waterfalls, mountains, etc. We arrived at our hostel after a long, dark, foggy journey through the mountains. All of Ecuador lost power on Thursday night, so each small village we passed through had candles lighting the storefronts and restaurants. We arrived at the hostel in the dark, but when we awoke the next morning, we saw how beautiful the building and its view were. My bedroom had a balcony that faced a waterfall (see picture above)and the decorations and accommodations were gorgeous and comfortable.


After a huge breakfast on Friday morning, we split into two groups. I went with 7 others on a bike trip through the Ruta de Cascadas, which was a tour of the waterfalls in the area. We rode a mostly downhill path through the mountains and stopped to see 7 or 8 different waterfalls. They were absolutely breathtaking. Some people bungee jumped off a bridge on the way! At the last two falls, we hiked down to the balconies that faced the falls. We didn’t think our legs would make it down the last hike, which was a practically vertical .5 mile descent, but it was well worth the trek. We landed at the base of an 800m high waterfall and were mesmerized by the mist and energy being produced. The company we rented bikes through picked up us and our bikes, which was nice because I don’t think my legs would have survived the uphill 25 mile ride home! In the evening, we went to one of the ‘baños’ in town, which was only two blocks from our hostel. These public pools are fed by the naturally hot and cold water from the falls. The water was murky from all the minerals and jam packed with people. The idea is to go back and forth between the hot and cold baths, but that is easier said than done!

On Saturday, we got up early again to go white water rafting on the river. I think it’s safe to say we all had a blast. The rapids were not too dangerous, but there was definitely a thrill to being bounced around on the river among rocks and trees. The guides were hilarious and liked to play tricks such as pushing people overboard, splashing other rafts, and making us paddle when it was more or less impossible. At one point, the pulled the rafts up to a seemingly small waterfall that fed directly into the river and let us all get out and run underneath it. I was glad I was wearing a helmet because the water pressure was pretty intense. After abut 2 hours on the water, we took another Chiva ride back to Baños. Afterwards, I went hiking with a couple people up one of the mountains to see the view of the town, which was absolutely beautiful. After our hike, Song and I stumbled upon mass in the church in the middle of the town. The mass was really nice and the church was beautiful on the inside. However, they were really into neon lights - there was neon on the altar, the pulpit, and the roof outside (see above)! During dinner that night, the manager of the restaurant invited a local folk band in and they played some indigenous music for us in a private, impromptu concert (we were the only ones in the restaurant). Later, we went to a salsa club recommended by our rafting guides, which was so much fun.

On Sunday, we returned with the whole group to Palion del Diablo, the most famous fall on the Ruta de Cascadas. We hikes down to the bottom of the fall, and from there were able to cross a rope bridge to the other side to look up to the top. We also climbed up to balconies that were built into the side of the mountain to get closer to the top. To get to the highest balcony, we practically crawled through a tunnel that was no more than 3 feet high in some places to get close to the top. The view was incredible, the water was clear, and the mist felt so good. I didn’t even notice that it had started to rain because we were already wet from the waterfall! The hike back up was slippery and tricky in the rain, but again, well worth it. From there, we took the van back to Quito. The weekend went by fast but was definitely fun. I hope we get to go rafting, hiking, and biking again on some of our other trips!!

Buenos Dias! This afternoon, the BC crew is taking off for Banos, a small town on the side of a volcano about three hours from Quito. We are leaving after classes today and coming back on Sunday.

This week has more or less been focused on starting classes, homework, and getting schedules straightened out. Classes are all going well, though I will definitely have a LOT of reading to do over the next few months. I'm excited, though, because most of the reading is short stories or contemporary classics (Cien Anos de Soledad, La Ciudad y Los Perros, etc).

Last night we celebrated Becca's birthday and had some fabulous entertainment. Eddie brought his guitar and both he and Amanda played and sang for us. It was also Mom's birthday, so it was fun to be celebrating, even if it was from far away! Have a great weekend, and good luck to all those who started classes this week at BC!

Weekend in Quito

This weekend, we (the BC crew) discovered La Mariscal, locally known as “la zona.” This area is the place to be at night in Quito. The streets are crowded with people (locals and tourists) and there are bars, restaurants, and discotecas galore. The music is loud, the crowds are endless, and the taxis take over the streets. I think it’s safe to say that this is a good city to be in if you like to dance (I know I do, so I’m happy!). A benefit of traveling in a group so big is that cab rides home are even cheaper. The rides are cheap to begin with - maybe $3 from someone’s house to la zona if you bargain and don’t get ripped off!

We did see some things in la zona that were different, to say the least. Some indigenous families from outside the city come down to La Mariscal at night to sell candies, gum, and cigarettes. They all have their little kids, who fearlessly approach everyone that walks buy asking them to buy something. We even saw a little girl, no more than 4, sneak into a bar and start asking for money inside. The next day, this led to some very thought provoking conversation over dinner about the economies and subeconomies that these families are a part of and the effects of supporting or denying them our spare change.

Yesterday morning, I went with Maqui and the girls to Quito Tennis and Golf Club. This club is simply indescribable. We started in the gym with a dance class where I realized that hips do not, in fact, lie and mine will never pass for Latin-American! The instructor was incredible and worked us hard. We then spent a few hours relaxing in the spa-like locker room before taking a tour of the grounds. The best comparison I can come up with, for those of you at home, is Virtua plus Tavistock plus the sports complex in Corolla plus the old stables at the Garden State Racetrack. (Read: 2 pools, infinite tennis, squash, and futbol courts/fields, a gym, a spa, multiple restaurants, a golf course, stables and places to ride horses, trails for jogging, etc.) I was blown away! For lunch, Maqui ordered me two typical Quiteño dishes: fried mini empanadas as a starter and beef with a fried egg on top as my entrée. Delicious!

Afterwards, we went to Teleferiquo, which is a mountain with a gondola up to the top which has a great view of the city. Unfortunately, it was very cloudy when we got there, so we decided to save the ride up for another day when it is clearer. Last night, we celebrated Jenna’s birthday last night at her host family’s home. The food was delicious and the view was a breathtaking one of the city at night.

This morning we went back to Quito Tennis and Golf for mass and then to Maqui’s mother’s farm about an 45 minutes outside the city. Her entire family meets there every Sunday for lunch. Again, I was blown away. On the property are four houses, trails, gardens, more avocado trees than I could ever have imagined, farm animals, and more. The farms we think of in the states are nothing like this – it’s more like all their country home’s all in one place surrounded by mountains, palm trees, flowers, and sunshine. All that family time certainly made me miss my own, but everyone was so nice. I’m sure I’ll be back there on weekends when I’m not away. That’s all for now…lots of love!

Weekend in Quito

This weekend, we (the BC crew) discovered La Mariscal, locally known as “la zona.” This area is the place to be at night in Quito. The streets are crowded with people (locals and tourists) and there are bars, restaurants, and discotecas galore. The music is loud, the crowds are endless, and the taxis take over the streets. I think it’s safe to say that this is a good city to be in if you like to dance (I know I do, so I’m happy!). A benefit of traveling in a group so big is that cab rides home are even cheaper. The rides are cheap to begin with - maybe $3 from someone’s house to la zona if you bargain and don’t get ripped off!

We did see some things in la zona that were different, to say the least. Some indigenous families from outside the city come down to La Mariscal at night to sell candies, gum, and cigarettes. They all have their little kids, who fearlessly approach everyone that walks buy asking them to buy something. We even saw a little girl, no more than 4, sneak into a bar and start asking for money inside. The next day, this led to some very thought provoking conversation over dinner about the economies and subeconomies that these families are a part of and the effects of supporting or denying them our spare change.

Saturday morning, I went with Maqui and the girls to Quito Tennis and Golf Club. This club is simply indescribable. We started in the gym with a dance class where I realized that hips do not, in fact, lie and mine will never pass for Latin-American! The instructor was incredible and worked us hard. We then spent a few hours relaxing in the spa-like locker room before taking a tour of the grounds. The best comparison I can come up with, for those of you at home, is Virtua plus Tavistock plus the sports complex in Corolla plus the old stables at the Garden State Racetrack. (Read: 2 pools, infinite tennis, squash, and futbol courts/fields, a gym, a spa, multiple restaurants, a golf course, stables and places to ride horses, trails for jogging, etc.) I was blown away! For lunch, Maqui ordered me two typical Quiteño dishes: fried mini empanadas as a starter and beef with a fried egg on top as my entrée. Delicious!

Afterwards, we went to Teleferiquo, which is a mountain with a gondola up to the top which has a great view of the city. Unfortunately, it was very cloudy when we got there, so we decided to save the ride up for another day when it is clearer. Last night, we celebrated Jenna’s birthday last night at her host family’s home. The food was delicious and the view was a breathtaking one of the city at night.

This morning we went back to Quito Tennis and Golf for mass and then to Maqui’s mother’s farm about an 45 minutes outside the city. Her entire family meets there every Sunday for lunch. Again, I was blown away. On the property are four houses, trails, gardens, more avocado trees than I could ever have imagined, farm animals, and more. The farms we think of in the states are nothing like this – it’s more like all their country home’s all in one place surrounded by mountains, palm trees, flowers, and sunshine. All that family time certainly made me miss my own, but everyone was so nice. I’m sure I’ll be back there on weekends when I’m not away. That’s all for now…lots of love!

A few pictures...

Guayasamin Musuem
Fabulous view of Quito
Model of Colonial Quito and the Musuem of San Fransisco
Guards outside the President's Palace
Colonial Quito

Overwhelmed and Underdressed

What a busy few days it’s been! On Saturday and Monday, we had orientation with Amanda and the larger Office of International Programs respectively. We learned about safety in Quito, classes, health (i.e. what gringos should avoid eating and drinking), and Ecuadorian culture. The most interesting part of orientation with all the international students was when our tour guide decided to do a pretty quick tour (campus isn’t very big) and then take us to Carlita’s, a bar across the street. There, he encouraged us to get $1 cervezas, which were probably as big as 2 beers in the US. Can you imagine that happening at BC’s international orientation!?

Our lunches have been outstanding as well. Lunch is the main meal of the day because the altitude slows digestion, so it is better to eat earlier in the day (or so says Amanda’s husband, Boni). We have been to Amanda’s home, which has a beautiful garden, to a restaurant on the side of a mountain with an absolutely breathtaking view of all of Quito, to Boni’s café, and two local places by USFQ. All the food so far has been delicious! The Ecuadorians are big fans of soup and fresh fruit juice. So far I’ve had jugo (juice) de tomate de arbol (a fruit we definitely don’t have at home), mango, and a few really delicious blends. Some other local treats I’ve tasted so far are ceviche de camarones (shrimp) and locra, a popular soup.

Sunday and Tuesday were spent on historical/cultural explorations of Quito with Amanda. We went to quite a few museums and learned a lot about Ecuador’s history, from the first indigenous people to arrive in South America through Ecuador’s Independence in 1809. Almost every name or date we have heard so far is a street name somewhere in Ecuador! We also visited the museum of Guyasamín, a quiteño who is renowned for his art. His was my favorite museum by far because his art was quite modern and abstract but commented on some serious political, social, and cultural issues throughout Ecuador’s history.

On Monday night, I went with Maqui and the girls to an 18th birthday party for Maqui’s niece, María Laura. They actually live next door to us in the building. I’m not sure how many condos there are in the building, but it’s a beautiful place and is mostly inhabited by Maqui’s family. Her mom and most of her 8 brothers and sisters’ families, all live here. The party was quite overwhelming. There had to be almost 50 people there and they were all talking so fast. Everyone was really friendly but it was hard to break into conversations among the various groups of friends and family members. I had a really good time talking with Melissa’s friends and then again when one of the aunts sat mw down at a table with her oldest son’s friends. They were hilarious, though I could only pick up about 50% of what they were talking about. I learned at the party that in Ecuador, the alcohol and the laughter flow pretty freely!

Yesterday was the first day of classes. I went to Cumbaya (the town where USFQ is situated, in the valley) early this morning because I had no idea how long the buses would take and I wanted to get to know the campus. Also, I went with Amanda to Colegio Menor, where I will be doing a pre-prac, to meet the principal of the high school. However, when we got there, we found out she had to leave for some reason or another and couldn’t meet with us. The campus of CM is beautiful too, not that I expected any less from the prep school for USFQ! It’s a private high school and most classes are taught in English. The first person I saw when I walked in was Maui’s sister-in-law, who lives in this building and teaches there too.

I only actually had one class yesterday, but WOW. USFQ certainly lives up to its reputation for being home to the most stylish, well dressed Ecuadorians. The girls are decked out in their high heeled boots and the guys in all their polos and designer shades. (And no, it’s not super hot here. Although we are more or less on the equator, the elevation keeps in cool. It’s definitely cooler at home in Quito than it is on campus). Yesterday kind of felt like the first day of high school all over again…it seemed like everyone knew each other and they were all hanging out on the stairs and lawns. (This morning is a bit better because it´s raining and everyone is indoors!) It was quite overwhelming again to know that I pretty much stand out, and probably will until I look like I know where I’m going and what I’m doing. Luckily, it was easy to run into the BC kids all day (after all, there are 17 of us!), which was comforting. I hope we all branch out and make friends with native students too, though! This morning, an Ecua classmate had to help me decipher the very messy note left on the door telling us that class was canceled. We went for coffee for a bit instead, which was nice because now I have a friend in my class!

Sorry this is so long…muchisimas gracias if you made it all the way through! I promise once I get an established and consistent internet connection at home I will post smaller, more frequent tidbits! Also, I’ll get some pictures up soon. Lots of love!!

Safe Arrival

After 2 delayed flights, a landing in the wrong city due to fog in Quito, and an hour circling the airport in the air waiting for that fog to clear, my flight finally landed in Quito at 4am this morning...only 5 hours late! When I made it through the immigration and customs lines an hour later, my host mom, Maqui, and her daughters Karina and Melissa were waiting with hugs and kisses. What good sports! They had been at the airport since 10pm and didn´t see me until 5am. I am grateful for a safe arrival, even though the trip took a bit longer than anticipated.

Today and tomorrow are Orientation with the BC group (there are 17 of us) and our on-site coordinator, Amanda. This city is SO beautiful. The campus of USFQ looks much more like a resort than a University. I think I can get used to this :)

I won´t have as much internet access at night as I´m used to, so if it takes me a few days to get back to e-mails, don´t get upset. I´m going to work in finding time for Skype once I start classes and figure out what´s going on. Now it´s time to catch up on sleep and get ready for another beautiful day in Cumbaya tomorrow. Ciao!